DIY Olaf Costume Instructions
When my son asked for a DIY Olaf Costume for Mickey’s Halloween Party this year we had no idea the beast of a project we were signing up for. My husband and mom made this incredible costume and as you might imagine it has been very popular. Many people who loved our little Olaf inspired snowman costume have asked for step by step instructions. Because my husband never anticipated it being quite this popular he had to retrace his steps a bit and I am so thankful he was willing to put out this instruction guide. Here is DIY Olaf Costume Instructions just for you, our lovely readers!
Please note he changed a few things about this how to than what he actually did, because if he had it to make again he thinks the instructions here would have made it easier. My husband is not a pattern or costume maker so those of you that are might think “What the heck?”, but it worked so go with it. This Olaf costume is just a general guide and I highly suggest reading through it first before starting. Please feel free to ask questions in the comment section and he will do his best to answer if you have any trouble while attempting your own DIY Olaf costume! This is not a Disney sponsored post in any way, we are just gigantic Disney Frozen fans and my son ‘had to’ be Olaf and we just went a little over the top.
So I gotta ask…. “Do you wanna build a snowman?”
So here is Harry in all his costume making DIY glory and in his own words…….
OK, just so we a clear, this is time consuming.
The instructions here are your guidelines. You will have to adjust and modify the template and costume to your needs.
- White Felt Fabric
- Brown Fabric for Sleeves, gloves, eyebrows
- Orange Fabric for nose
- 1/2 Craft foam
- Contact cement and foam applicator
- Hair dryer
- Bike Helmet
- Lots of patience
Note about contact cement.
This cement glue should be applied to the foam. You must let it dry almost completely. Once it is dry to touch, bring the glued areas in “Contact” with each other. Press and hold. The cement glues to itself only when dry. This takes anywhere from 10-30 minutes depending on the temperature. I used a hair dryer for about 1 minute on each piece to speed things along.
How to succeed at this.
Read this tutorial completely first, then print out the templates and read the instructions there. I put the most instructions on the last template (Leg) so be sure to read through it all. You need to have a good idea about the whole process before you dive in. The templates are HUGE! Some are 4′ wide as it is actual size. You will need to go to a print shop to print these out.
Fabric comes in all kinds of sizes so calculate how much you will need ahead of time.
Use lots of patience and remember that this is just a guide. You will have to adjust and correct your costume. Plan for it taking up to 20 hours to complete. Here I am at work. It may take you 20 hours to make but I spent a lot more than that.
Study the main template carefully. First cut out the foam. They are indicated with green lines. Note the the front of the face is a separate piece that is glued on. This is needed so the face is flat and not rounded like the rest of the head. There is the circle top of the head piece, the upper head made of 2 pieces, the face, then the bottom half of the head. The muzzle is made of 2 pieces and has the cheek balls connected to it. This looks very odd, but it does work. Feel free to make up your own way to create cheeks too. Glue the head together then attach the muzzle to it. I did not glue the teeth in place but rather hand sewed it on. You can experiment with that too. Try the head on to be sure it fits. Remember to not glue the back seam in the lower section. You will need to open up the head to slide your head into it.
Use a bike helmet to attach the head to your child. I used 4 inch thick pieces of foam that I shaped to the outside contour of the helmet. So – from the inside out you should have the helmet, foam shaped to the outside of the helmet, then the Olaf head foam. You can glue the thick foam in place or just enough so the helmet is snug in place. I glue my foam to the inside of the head. This took a little effort but was worth it.
After you have your head foam shape made up, sew the main fabric. It is the same pattern as the foam. Make sure you do not cut the front face off the fabric like we did with the foam. The top circle was tough to sew, so cut the pattern down as needed. Sew the back seam and add the velcro to the bottom part of it. Sew the front chin together.
Next work with the gray fabric strip. Sew that to the inside gray fabric. Once those are done, sew them onto the completed head fabric. Use 1/4 inch to sew on. The foam is 1/2 inch thick so that is all you need to save. The gray fabric will be floppy until we spray mount it onto the inside of the foam.
Eyebrows and eyes.
Sew the eyebrows then cut a slit on the back side. Stuff them and wip stitch it back together. Hand sew it onto the face fabric. Cut the eye holes into the felt white fabric. Be sure to cut the hole just a little smaller than the actual foam eyeballs. The fabric should tuck under the foam eyeballs so no green foam shows through.
Sew your nose pattern together. Leave a gap on the bottom so you can turn the nose inside out and stuff. After you finish stuffing it, wip stitch it closed. Hand sew the nose onto the face fabric. It goes right between the eyes and should touch the edges. The nose is heavy so sew it on well.
The muzzle (this is the most challenging part of the costume)
Sew the the check ball inside seams first (not the perimeter). In other words, make the ball shape first, the edges are going to be sewn last. Once these are done, sew the top to the bottom piece. You can carefully sew the muzzle onto the head piece. You should mark the muzzle shape onto the head fabric and cut it out. Then sew the seams together. If it is difficult, you will have to hand sew it. I was able to use the sewing machine to accomplish this so just be patient. The same thing has to happen for the cheek. Trace the shape and cut it out of the head shape.
Olaf’s buck teeth.
I used a smooth fabric for the teeth. It was the same fabric that I used to make the bottom of the legs. See below. Cut 1 foam shape and them sew the template. It folds in half. Sew the foam completely into the fabric. Hand sew the teeth onto the muzzle shape.
Putting the head together
Squish the foam inside the head fabric. You will have to carefully shape it in. Make sure the foam fills the head fabric well. If you make a mistake, remove the foam and fix it. You can also use stuffing to fill your fabric if you foam is too small. Remove the foam and sew the teeth in place. Be sure to test this all out before you sew the bottom of the carrot nose onto the muzzle. Once your nose is in, glue the eye balls in place. Color in the pupil first, then glue them in.
Put the helmet inside the head. Make adjustments as needed. The helmet can stay in the costume at this point. Try it on you child’s head. They should be able to turn their heads and look up and down.
OK, I put the head first because it is the most exciting part. It is also the hardest part. I recommend making the legs first. Work your way from the ground up. Each piece up is harder to make. If you are still up for it, go to the next page for the chest and sleeve instructions.